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Dust Reduction

Dust Reduction Filters

In many conversions, the dust filter has to be removed. The reason for this is that the piezo element in the dust reduction system is usually glued directly onto the IR cut filter. In some cases, the camera uses two filters, and only the outer one has dust reduction. In many cases, both of these filters block infrared. In some cases, the dust filter does not block infrared. See below:

From left to right, a Lumix GF1 dust filter, an EPL1 dust filter, an EPL1 lowpass filter, and a replacement clear filter.

Dust reduction filters

Now the same filters, shot in infrared. You can see the GF1 dust filter blocks infrared, while the EPL1 filter does not.

Dust reduction filters

To confirm it, here is the transmission curve of the EPL1 dust filter. The IR transmission is very high and stays at about 90% throughought the sensor’s sensitivity range, so we leave them in place after a conversion. There is some UV blockage in this filter as is typical for most glass which should be taken into consideration if converting an Olympus camera for UV purposes.

Dust reduction filters

Other cameras have a piezo element that clips on and is not permanently glued, like many of the NEX filters.

The cameras in which we can retain the dust elimination systems are listed below.

Olympus E-P1
Olympus E-PL1
Olympus E-P2
Olympus E-PL2
Olympus E-PM1

Sony NEX-3
Sony NEX-5
Sony NEX-C3

Sony A-series cameras

9 Responses

      1. Thanks Ilija. I was thinking of removing the D750 hot mirror filter for astrophotography (to get H-alpha wavelength) and replacing the dust reduction filter to block the IR shutter monitor.

        1. For that application, I have to warn you it will not work as well as you want. While it blocks IR enough to make any IR shooting impractical, it only blocks around 99.9% of the light. For long exposure astrophotography, the 0.1% will be enough to still see the leak. It will be a several fold reduction compared to unfiltered, though, for what that’s worth.

  1. Thanks for the warning. Just to confirm, even when using an external lens IR filter, the IR shutter monitor will still pollute the image through the internal dust filter?

  2. I would have a few question about it. Approximately how much infrared light passes through the dust filter in Sony A7? If i don’t remove the dust filter and i don’t replace the hot mirror with a clean glass, do i still need to calibrate the sensor for the proper focusing? The external KV Hot-Mirror filters are good for wide-lens? I mean for 28mm (on full frame). Some site says the IR-UV cut filters does not work properly with wide lens (AOV 60°<). I'm sorry I asked a lot of questions, but my A7 is the only camera what i have and i don't want to make bad decisions.

  3. NVM 🙂 I removed the hot mirror and retained the dust filter. It have some IR reduction, but a lot better than a stock camera. Before the modification i had to use a very-very long exposures, now my A7 is usable for infrared- and astrophotography. The only thing i should have is a small white paper which I always have to carry with me to calibrate the white balance for the specific environment and lighting conditions.

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