Canon EOS R100 Teardown

By Phillip Andrew Iglesias

The Canon EOS R100 fills the role of a budget RF-mount camera, coming in at $480 MSRP. The camera comes in a much smaller package—almost to the point where it could be considered a toy—but it has many features found in Canon’s upper-tier cameras. Let’s see how it compares to the rest of the RF-mount cameras in Canon’s lineup.

The specifications of the Canon EOS R100 include a 24.1 MP CMOS APS-C sensor, 4K (cropped) movie at up to 24 fps and Full HD movie at up to 60 fps, Dual Pixel CMOS AF, as well as Creative Filters and Creative Assist features. As we will soon see, the EOS R100 is similar to the EOS R10, with the main difference (externally) being the fixed LCD with the former and a flippable LCD with the latter.

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At the base of the camera, six Philips screws were unfastened to remove the baseplate.

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On the left side, two screws were removed under the dust caps and one screw under the remote control terminal. 

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After removing the screws, the dust cap trim cover could come off.

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The eyecup of the camera was held down with two screws. Removing these screws allowed us to take off the eyecup.

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On the right side, two screws above these terminals were extracted. This allowed us to remove the dust caps for the USB and HDMI ports.

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Lifting the built-in flash revealed one screw.

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On the top panel adjacent to the EOS R100 logo, we removed one screw.

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It seemed that nearly all of the external screws were removed. So, we searched for other screws underneath the rubber thumb grip, where we found one silver screw. 

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Two silver screws on each side of the EVF needed to be removed.

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Inside the battery slot, two screws were extracted.

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At this point, all the visible screws on the exterior had been extracted, which allowed us to remove the rear panel. Only one ribbon cable needed to be disconnected to disconnect the rear panel fully.

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We flipped back to the camera’s left side to remove one silver screw next to the microphone terminal.

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On the right side, two silver screws were removed. 

Six screws held down the circuit board bracket. 

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Now that we had access to the circuit board, we needed to disconnect the ribbon cables to remove the circuit board itself.

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Two ribbon cables were removed here: the first connected the EVF to the LCD, and the second connected the EVF to the sensor.

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The two ribbon cables for the top panel were disconnected here.

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The sensor, shutter, and USB/HDMI ribbon cables were removed from the circuit board. These were the last of the ribbon cables in the camera.

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The last thing was one silver screw. This allowed us to remove the circuit board altogether (finally!).

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The R100 uses springs for focus calibration, and the sensor is held down with three screws.

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The sensor came off easily and is now ready for our full spectrum conversion.

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The Canon EOS R100 was super easy to tear down. Overall, it’s similar to the Canon EOS R10, which is also an APS-C camera. The layout of the circuit boards between the cameras is slightly different, though.

It’s no surprise that the Canon EOS R100 is a lot easier to disassemble than the Canon EOS RP since the entire assembly is much more simple with less internal parts. According to our lead camera technician, it’s even easier to disassemble than our Kolari PocketOn a DIY Scale of 1-10 with one being the easiest and ten being the hardest, we would rate this a two. If Canon had used shims instead of springs, the disassembly process would be even faster.

Thanks for reading. If you’re interested in more camera teardowns, we feature a new one every month. Be sure to sign up for our newsletter so you don’t miss them!

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