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Table of Contents

Cameras and lenses generally weren’t designed for infrared use. Unfortunately, as a result, many lenses suffer from an infrared hotspot. We have compiled the world’s most extensive collection of lenses and their hotspot performance. The lists below are based on our internal tests and what others have reported. Lenses noted with an asterisk (*) have had mixed reports or only have a hotspot in limited situations. Please note: even poor performers can sometimes be used. Most hotspots only occur at smaller apertures and specific shooting angles.

Luckily, we offer AR-coated conversion filters that reduce hotspots, improving the performance of the lenses on this list. You can generally expect that with the AR coating, you will get several additional hotspot-free apertures, making some of the poor performers usable.

Please note: This list has errors, or you may find lenses listed as “poor” that you use well. That is because this is a compilation from various sources, and people have different judgements for what is acceptable. For example, a lens with a moderate hotspot at f/10some people may use it primarily at f/6 and below and think it is a fantastic lens. In contrast, someone who uses the lens around f/11 will think it is terrible, while yet another person may use it at f/11 and think the hotspot is mild and can be worked around and still think it’s a good lens. Additionally, hotspots tend to be worse with deeper IR filters, like 850nm, than the color IR filters, like 590nm. Ideally, every lens should specify the aperture range that causes hotspots, but until we get there, please take this list with a grain of salt, and if you find any errors, please let us know and we will fix them!

After you know what lens is good, order one on Amazon or eBay.

Canon EF-mount Lens IR Hotspot Performance

Good Performers
Poor Performers
Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM (good at all apertures and very sharp)
Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM
Canon EF 14mm f/2.8 USM
Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8 L USM
Canon EF 14mm f/2.8 II *
Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8 II L USM (bad after f/16 wide, bad at f/8 zoomed)
Canon EF 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye *
Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS
Canon EF 16-35mm f/4 L IS USM
Canon EF 20-35mm f/2.8 L
Canon TS-E 17mm f/4 L
Canon EF 20-35mm f/3.5-4.5 USM
Canon EF 17-35mm f/2.8 L
Canon EF 24mm f/1.4 L USM *
Canon EF 17-40mm f/4 L
Canon EF 24mm f/2.8
Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM (f/16+)
Canon TS-E 24mm f/3.5 L II *
Canon EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS *
Canon EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM
Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6
Canon EF Zeiss Otus 28mm f/1.4 (hotspot with 720nm and 850nm)
Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II * (no hotspot but flares easily)
Canon EF 28-70mm f/2.8 L USM
Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS
Canon EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 USM I
Canon EF 20mm f/2.8 USM *
Canon EF 35-80mm f/4-5.6 USM
Canon EF 22-55mm f/4-5.6 USM
Canon TS-E 45mm f/2.8 *
Canon TS-E 24mm f/3.5 L
Canon EF 50mm f/1.2 L USM *
Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8 L USM (mostly f/16 and above, better zoomed)
Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM
Canon EF 24-70mm f/4 L IS USM
Canon EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro
Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM *
Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS USM
Canon EF 28mm f/1.8 USM
Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS USM II
Canon EF 28mm f/2.8
Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS
Canon EF 28-70mm f/3.5-4.5 II
Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM *
Canon EF 28-80mm USM
Canon EF 100-300mm f/4.5-5.6
Canon EF 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 II USM
Canon EF 200mm f/2.8 L
Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM *
Canon EF 35mm f/1.4 L USM *
Canon EF 35mm f/2
Canon EF 40mm f/2.8 STM
Canon EF 50mm f/1 L USM
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II
Canon EF 50-200mm f/3.5-4.5 L USM
Canon EF 55-200mm f/4.5-5.6 II USM
Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS
Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 L USM
Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM
Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM
Canon EF 80-200mm f/2.8 L
Canon EF 85mm f/1.2 II L *
Canon TS-E 90mm f/2.8
Canon EF 100mm f/2 USM
Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro
Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 L IS USM Macro (f/16+)
Canon EF 100-300mm f/5.6 L
Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM
Canon EF 135mm f/2 L USM
Canon EF 135mm f/2.8 SF
Canon EF 180mm f/3.5 L Macro USM
Canon EF 200mm f/2 L IS USM *
Canon EF 200mm f/2.8 L USM *
Canon EF 300mm f/4 L USM
Canon EF 400mm f/2.8 L IS USM
Canon EF 400mm f/5.6 L USM
Canon EF 500mm f/4 L IS USM
Rokinon 24mm f/3.5 Tilt-Shift
Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS STM (hotspot starting at f/8 at 55mm and f/16 at 250mm)
Canon EF-L 8-15mm Fisheye
Canon EF 11-24mm f/4 L
Canon EF 300mm f/2.8 L IS
Canon EF 35mm f/1.4 L II
Canon TS-E 50mm f/2.8 L Macro
Carl Zeiss Distagon T* Otus 55mm f/1.4 ZE
Canon EF 85mm f/1.4 L IS
Canon EF 85mm f/1.4 L II
Canon EF 300mm f/4 L IS USM
Good Performers
Poor Performers
Canon RF 16mm f/2.8
Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8 L IS USM
Canon RF 24-240mm f/4-6.3 IS USM (hotspot starts at f/8-11, worst at 24mm)
Canon RF 24-70mm f/2.8 L IS USM
Canon RF 35mm f/1.8 Macro IS STM
Canon RF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM
Canon RF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS USM (hotspot starts at f/8-11, worst at 70mm)
Canon RF 28-70mm f/2 L USM
Canon RF 85mm f/1.2 L USM
Canon RF 50mm f/1.2 L USM (hotspot starts at f/4-5.6)
Canon RF 24-70mm f/2.8 (hotspot starting at f/8-f/11 at 70mm)
Canon RF 35mm f/1.8
Canon RF 100mm Macro f/2.8 (slight hotspot starting at f/13)
Canon RF 24-50mm F4.5-6.3 IS STM
Canon RF 24-105mm F4-7.1 IS STM (hotspot around 50mm)

Canon EOS M-mount Lens IR Hotspot Performance

Good Performers
Poor Performers
Canon EF-M 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM (good at f/10 or wider) *
Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 UMC Fisheye II (hotspot starting at f/5.6)
Canon EF-M 22mm f/2 STM (good at f/16 or wider) *
Rokinon 12mm f/2 NCS CS (hotspot starting at f/5.6)
Canon EF-M 11-22mm f/4-5.6 (hotspot starting at f/11 at 22mm)
Rokinon 21mm f/1.4 UMC CS (hotspot starting at f/4)
Canon EF-M 15-45mm f/3.5-6.3 (hotspot starting at f/11 at 15mm and f/22 at 45mm)
Rokinon 35mm f/1.2 UMC CS (hotpot starting at f/4)
Canon EF-M 28mm f/3.5 Macro (hotspot starting at f/11)
Canon EF-M 55-200mm f/4.5-6.3

Nikon Lens IR Hotspot Performance

Good Performers
Poor Performers
Nikon 10.5mm Fisheye f/2.8 G ED AF DX
Nikon 8-15mm f/3.5-4.5 E ED IF AF-S Fisheye
Nikon 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 G ED AF-S DX
Nikon 12-24mm f/4 AF-S G IF-ED DX
Nikon 14mm f/2.8 AF-D ED
Nikon 20mm f/1.8 G ED (hotspot starting at f/8)
Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8 AF-S G IF-ED
Nikon 24mm f/1.4 G ED AF-S
Nikon 15mm f/5.6 QDC Pre-AI
Nikon 24mm f/2.8 AF-D
Nikon 16mm Fisheye f/2.8 AF-D
Nikon 24mm f/2.8 (Pre-AI, AI, AI-S)
Nikon 16mm Fisheye f/2.8 AI *
Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 G ED AF-S Nikkor
Nikon 16-35mm f/4 G ED VR AF-S
Nikon 24-120mm f/3.5-5.6 G ED-IF AF-S VR *
Nikon 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6 G ED VR AF-S
Nikon 25-50mm f/4 (AI, AI-S)
Nikon 17-35mm f/2.8 ED-IF AF-S
Nikon 35mm f/1.4 AI-S
Nikon 17-55mm f/2.8 G ED-IF AF-S DX *
Nikon 35mm f/2.8 PC Pre-AI
Nikon 18mm f/3.5 AI-S
Nikon 40mm f/2.8 G AF-S DX Micro
Nikon 18-35mm f/3.5-4.5 AF-D IF-ED *
Nikon 43-86mm f/3.5 AI
Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 G AF-S DX ED
Nikon 50mm f/1.2 AI
Nikon 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5 G IF ED AF-S DX *
Nikon 50mm f/1.4 AI-S (severe hotspot starting at f/4)
Nikon 18-105mm f/2.5-5.6 G ED-IF AF-S VR DX
Nikon 50mm f/1.4 G AF-S
Nikon 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6 G ED AF-S VR DX *
Nikon Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/2.8 AI-S (hotspots at all apertures but wide open)
Nikon 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 G ED-IF SF-S DX
Nikon 60mm f/2.8 G AF-S ED Micro
Nikon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 G ED-IF AF-S VR DX
Nikon 60mm f/2.8 AF-D Micro
Nikon 20mm f/2.8 AI-S
Nikon 60mm f/2.8 AF Micro
Nikon 20mm f/2.8 AF
Nikon 70-210mm f/4-5.6 AF-D (hotspot starting at f/8)
Nikon 20mm f/2.8 AF-D
Nikon Nikkor-H 85mm f/1.8 (diffuse hotspot from f/4)
Nikon 20mm f/3.5 AI-S
Nikon 105mm f/2.8 AF Micro
Nikon 20mm f/4 * (pre-AI, AI)
Nikon 105mm f/2.8 AI-S Micro
Nikon 24mm f/2 AI-S *
Nikon 180mm f/2.8 ED AI-S
Nikon 24mm f/2.8 AF-D *
Nikon 200mm f/4 (AI, AI-S) (hotspot starting at f/8)
Nikon 24mm f/2.8 AI-S
Nikon 200mm f/4 ED AF
Nikon 24mm f/3.5 PC-E D ED
Nikon 400mm f/5.6 PC Pre-AI
Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 G ED-IF AF-S * (varies by model, bad after f/5.6)
Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8E
Nikon 24-85mm f/2.8-4 IF AF-D
Nikon 28mm f/3.5 Pre-AI
Nikon 24-120mm f/4 G ED VR AF-S
Nikon 28mm f/1.4 AF-D
Nikon 28mm f/1.8 AF-S (bad hotspot after f/5.6)
Nikon 28mm f/2 AI *
Nikon 28mm f/2.8 * (AI, AI-S)
Nikon 28mm f/2.8 AF-D *
Nikon 28mm f/3.5 (AI, AI-S)
Nikon 28-70mm f/2.8 AF-S D IF ED
NIkon 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 G
Nikon 28-200mm f/3.5-5.6 G IF ED
Nikon 35mm f/1.8 G AF-S DX * (hotspot at f/11 and above)
Nikon 35mm f/2 Pre-AI *
Nikon 35mm f/2 * (AI, AI-S)
Nikon 35mm f/2 AF-D
Nikon 35mm f/2.5 Series E AI-S
Nikon 35mm f/2.8 Pre-AI *
Nikon 35-70mm f/2.8 AF
Nikon 35-70mm f/2.8 AF-D
Nikon 35-70mm f/3.3-4.5 AF
Nikon 35-70mm f/3.5 AI
Nikon 35-105mm f/3.5-4.5 S Zoom-Nikkor AI-S Macro (hotspot starting at f/11)
Nikon 35-135mm f/3.5-4.5 AF
Nikon 45mm f/2.8 GN Auto Nikkor
Nikon 45mm f/2.8 AI-P
Nikon 45mm f/2.8 D ED PC-E (very good from f/2.8 to f/11, mild hotspot starting at f/16)
Nikon 50mm f/1.2 AI-S (hotspot at f/4, but at f/2.8 very good)
Nikon 50mm f/1.4 AF-D
Nikon 50mm f/1.4 G
Nikon 50mm f/1.8 AI-S *
Nikon 50mm f/1.8 AF *
Nikon 50mm f/1.8 AF-D (can start to hotspot around f/8-f/11)
Nikon 50mm f/1.8 G AF-S *
Nikon 50mm f/2 (H-HC) Pre-AI *
Nikon 50mm f/2 (Pre-AI, AI) *
El Nikkor 50mm f/4 Enlarger Lens (very crisp with absolutely no flare)
Nikon 55mm f/3.5 Pre-AI *
Nikon 58mm f/1.2 Noct-Nikkor AI *
Nikon 70-80mm f/4.5-5.6 ED AF-D VR Micro
Nikon 70-180mm f/4.5-5.6 ED AF Micro
Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 G IF-ED VR AF-S
Nikon 70-210mm f/4.5-5.6 AF
Nikon 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 G ED-IF AF-S VR
Nikon 80mm f/2.8 AF IF
Nikon 80-200mm f/2.8 D ED AF
Nikon 80-400mm f/ 4.5-5.6 G ED VR AF-S
Nikon 85mm f/1.4 AI-S
Nikon 85mm f/1.4 IF AF-D
Nikon 85mm f/1.8 AF-D
Nikon 85mm f/2.8 PC Micro
Nikon 85mm f/2.8 PC-E Micro
Nikon 85mm f/2 (AI/AI-S)
Nikon 85mm f/2.8 (AF/AI-S)
Nikon 85mm f/2.8 D PC-E Micro
Nikon 86mm f/1.8 Pre-AI
Nikon 105mm f/1.8 AI-S
Nikon 105mm f/2 D AF DC (no hotspots to at least f/11, very sharp)
Nikon 105mm f/2.5 (Pre-AI, AI, AI-S)
Nikon 105mm f/2.5 Nikkor PC AI-S
Nikon 105mm f/2.8 G AF-S VR IF-ED
Nikon 105mm f/2.8 AF-D Micro (mild hotspot starting at f/16)
Nikon 105mm f/4 AI-S Micro
Nikon 105mm f/4.5 UV-Nikkor
Nikon 105mm f/4 Bellows
Nikon 135mm f/2 AI-S
Nikon 135mm f/2 AF DC
Nikon 135mm f/2.8 Pre-AI
Nikon 200mm f/2 ED IF (AI, AI-S)
Nikon 200mm f/2 G ED IF VR AF-S
Nikon 200mm f/4 AF-D IF ED Micro *
Nikon 200mm Nikkor Q f/4 (Pre-AI)
Nikon 300mm f/2.8 ED-IF AF-S (no hotspots but a little softer for IR)
Nikon 300mm f/4.5 ED IF AI-S
Nikon 400mm f/3.5 ED-IF (AI, AI-S)
Nikon 16-80mm f/2.8-4 DX VR
Nikon 24mm f/1.8 G ED
Nikon 70-200mm f/4 G ED
Nikon 105mm f/2.8 G IF-D VR Macro
Nikon 200-500mm f/5.6 E ED VR
Nikon 10-20mm f/4.5-5.6 G AF-P DX VR
Nikon 135mm f/3.5 Pre-AI

Nikon Z-mount Lens IR Hotspot Performance

Good Performers
Poor Performers
14-30mm f/4 S (mild hotspot at f/11 and higher; excellent corner sharpness)
14-24mm f/2.8 S
20mm f/1.8 S (very good through f/8; mild hotspot at f/11 and above)
16-50mm f/3.5-6.3 (DX format)
24mm f/1.8 S
24-50mm f/4-6.3
24-70mm f/4 S (mild hotspot at f/11 and higher; more pronounced at 24mm)
24-70mm f/2.8 S
35mm f/1.8 S
24-200mm f/4-6.3
50mm f/1.8 S
50mm f/1.2 S
50mm MC f/2.8 Macro * (significant hotspot at f/8 and above)
70-200mm f/2.8 S
50-250mm f/4.5-6.3 (DX format) (good performance across the focal range through f/11)
85mm f/1.8 S
105mm MC f/2.8 VR S * (significant hotspot at f/8 and above)
24-120mm S
40mm f/2
50mm f/1.2
28-75mm f/2.8
85mm f/1.2
14-34mm
135mm f/1.8
100-400mm
Laowa 10mm f/2.8 Zero-D FF AF

Sony E/FE-mount Lens IR Hotspot Performance

Good Performers
Poor Performers
Sony E 16mm f/2.8 (hotspot starting at f/5.6) *
Sony 10-18mm f/4 OSS (mild hotspots starting at f/5.6)
Sony Vario-Tessar T* FE 16-35mm f/4 ZA OSS (good to f/16 at 35mm, goot to f/5.6 at 16mm)
Sony E 16-50mm f/3.5-5.6 (strong hotspot at f/8+) *
Sony Vario-Tessar T* E 16-70mm f/4 ZA OSS (mild hotspot starting at f/5.6, works best with 590nm)
Sony G Master FE 24-70mm f/2.8
Sony E 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS (mild hotspot starting at f/7, mostly at 18mm) *
Sony FE 24-240mm f/3.5-6.3 OSS
Sony E Zeiss T* 24mm f/1.8 ZA
Zeiss Batis FE 25mm f/2 (hotspots start around f/2-4)
Sony Vario-Tessar T* FE 24-70mm f/4 ZA OSS (mind hotspot starting at f/8)
Rokinon FE 35mm f/2.8
Sony FE 28mm f/2 (hotspot starts at f/8)
Sony FE 24-205mm f/4
Sony FE 28-70mm f/3.5-5.6
Sony FE 12-24mm f/4 G
Sigma E 30mm f/2.8 EX DN
Sony FE 70-200mm f/2.8 GM OSS
Sony Sonnar T* FE 35mm f/2.8 ZA (hotspot starts at f/8)
Sony FE 24-105mm f/4 G OSS
Mitakon Zhongyi Speedmaster FE 50mm f/0.95
Sony 50mm ZA (hotspot starting at f/5.6
Sony FE 50mm f/1.2 G Master (hotspot starts at f/16)
Sony 100mm STF GM
Sony FE 50mm f/1.8
Sony FE 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 GM OSS (hotspot starting at f/6.3)
Sony E 50mm f/1.8 OSS (hotspot starting at f/12)
Zeiss Touit 50mm f/2.8 M Macro E-mount (good to f/8)
Sony Sonnar T* FE 55mm f/1.8 ZA
Sony E 55-210mm f/4.5-6.3
Sony FE 70-200mm f/2.8 GM OSS II
Sony FE 70-200mm f/4 G OSS (hotspot starting at f/13
Sony FE 200-600mm f/5.6-6.3 G OSS
Rokinon FE 135mm f/2 ED UMC
Sony 24mm GM
Sony FE 24-70mm f/2.8 GM II (hotspot starting at f/16)

Sony A-mount Lens IR Hotspot Performance

Good Performers
Poor Performers
Sony 16-50m f/2.8 DT (hotspot starts at f/8)
Sony 16-35mm f/2.8 ZA SSM Vario-Sonnar T*
Sony Vario-Tessar T* E 16-70mm f/4 ZA OSS (hotspot starts at f/8)
Sony Sonnar T* 16-80mm f/3.5-4.5 ZA DT
Sony 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 SAM SAL
Sony 16-105mm f/3.5-5.6 DT (mild hotspots)
Sony 18-70mm f/3.5-5.6 DT *
Sony 24-70mm f/2.8 Carl Zeiss T (mild hotspots but useable)
Sony 24mm f/2 Carl Zeiss T*
Sony Sonnar T* FE 35mm f/2.8 ZA Lens (mild hotspot at f/2.8, bad after f/4)
Sony 35mm f/1.4 G
Sony 50mm f/1.4
Sony Sonnar T* 135mm f/1.8 ZA
Sony 85mm f/1.4 (mild hotspots)

Fujifilm X-mount Lens IR Hotspot Performance

Good Performers
Poor Performers
Samyang 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye
Fujifilm XF 10-24mm f/4 R OIS (hotspot at most apertures)
Fujifilm XF 14mm f/2.8 (mild hotspot starting at f/11) *
Fujifilm XF 16mm f/1.4 R WR (hotspot past f/2.8)
Fujifilm XC 16-50mm f/3.5-5.6 OIS (hotspot after f/8)
Fujifilm XF 18mm f/2 (soft wide open, hotspot starting at f/8)
Fujifilm XF 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR (IR color vignetting)
Fujifilm XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 R LM OIS (hotspot at most apertures)
Fujifilm XF 23mm f/1.4
Fujifilm XF 27mm f/2.8 (useable up to f/4)
Fujifilm XF 23mm f/2 R WR
Fujifilm XF 56mm f/1.2 R (usable up to f/2.8 only)
Fujifilm XF 35mm f/1.4 (mild hotspot starting at f/11)
Fujifilm XF 60mm f/2.4 Macro (useable up to f/5.6)
Fujifilm XF 35mm f/2 R WR
Fujifilm XF 16-55mm
Fujifilm XF 50mm f/2 R WR
Fujifilm XF 80mm f/2.8 R LM OIS
Zeiss Touit 50mm f/2.8 M Macro (good up to f/8)
Voigtlander Ultra Opton 35mm
Fujifilm XF 50-140mm f/2.8 R LM OIS WR
Fujifilm XF 55-200mm f/3.5-4.8 R LM OIS (small hotspot at f/11, bad at f/22)
Fujifilm 16-80mm

Fujifilm G-mount Lens IR Hotspot Performance

Good Performers
Poor Performers
Fujifilm GF 30mm f/5.6 (hotspot starts at f/8)
Fujifilm GF 32mm f/4
Fujifilm GF 45mm f/2.8
Fujifilm GF 63mm f/2.8
Fujifilm GF 50mm f/3.5 (mild hotspot starting at f/8, significant by f/16) *
Fujifilm GF 80mm f/1.7
Fujifilm GF 110mm f/2
Fujifilm GF 120mm f/4
Fujifilm 250mm f/4
Fujifilm GF 100-200mm f/5.6

Sigma Lens IR Hotspot Performance

Good Performers
Poor Performers
Sigma 8mm f/4 EX DG Fisheye
Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX HSM DC *
Sigma 10-20mm f/3.5 EX DC HSM ELD SLD (flares, but okay with hotspots
Sigma 12-24mm f/4.5-5.6 EX DG II
Sigma 12-24mm f/4.5-5.6 EX DG I *
Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4.5 DC Macro HSM
Sigma 14mm f/2.8 EX HSM
Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8 EX DC *
Sigma 15mm f/2.8 EX DG
Sigma 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 DC OS HSM (problems when not at 18mm and 200mm)
Sigma 15-30mm f/3.5-4.5 EX DG
Sigma 28mm f/1.8 EX DG
Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4.5 DC Macro
Sigma 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 DG (only bad at 28-40mm)
Sigma 18mm f/3.5
Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC
Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8
Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art (useable up to f/2.8)
Sigma 18-50mm f/3.5-5.6 DC
Sigma 50mm f/1.4 EX DG HSM Art
Sigma 20mm f/1.8 EX DG
Sigma 70mm f/2.8 EX DG Macro
Sigma 24mm f/1.8 EX ASP DG Macro
Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG HSM *
Sigma AF 24mm f/2.8 Macro
Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 DG (non-APO)
Sigma 24-50mm f/4-5.6 UC
Sigma 24-60mm f/2.8 EX DG
Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 EX DG *
Sigma OS 17-50mm f/2.8
Sigma 24-70mm f/3.5-5.6 UC
Sigma 24-35mm f/2 Art (hotspot starting at f/7.1)
Sigma 28mm f/2.8 EX
Sigma 28mm f/2.8 (manual focus)
Sigma 30mm f/2.8 EX DN (E-mount)
Sigma 50mm f/2.8 (manual focus)
Sigma 50-500mm f/4-6.3 EX DG HSM
Sigma 55-200mm f/4-5.6 DC
Sigma 100-300mm f/4 EX DG IF HSM
Sigma 105mm f/2.8 EX DG AF Macro *
Sigma 105mm f/2.8 EX DG OS HSM Macro (up to f/8)
Sigma 150mm f/2.8 EX DG APO HSM Macro
Sigma 180mm f/3.5 EX HSM APO Macro (non DG)
Sigma 400mm f/5.6

Olympus 4/3-mount Lens IR Hotspot Performance

Good Performers
Poor Performers
Olympus 7-14mm f/4 ED
Olympus 7-14 f/2.8 Pro
Olympus 8mm f/3.5 Fisheye ED
Olympus M.Zuiko 12-40mm f/2.8 ED
Olympus 11-22mm f/2.8-3.5
Olympus 12-60mm f/2.8-40 ED
Olympus 12-100 f/4 Pro
Olympus OM 28mm f/3.5
Olympus Zuiko Digital 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 ED
Olympus OM 50mm f/1.4
Olympus 14-54mm f/2.8-3.5 ED *
Olympus 50mm f/2 ED Macro
Olympus 14-54mm f/2.8-3.5 ED II *
Olympus OM 24mm f/2.8
Olympus OM 35mm f/2.8
Olympus 35mm f/3.5 Macro
Olympus 40-150mm f/3.5-4.5 II
Olympus 50mm f/1.4 OM F.Zuiko
Olympus 50mm f/1.8 OM F.Zuiko
Olympus 50-200mm f/2.8-3.5 ED SWD
Olympus OM 55mm f/1.2
Olympus Zuiko 70-300mm f/4-5.6 ED
Olympus OM 135mm f/2.8

Panasonic Lens IR Hotspot Performance

Good Performers
Poor Performers
Panasonic Leica D Summilux 25mm f/1.4 (four-thirds)
Panasonic 15-50mm f/2.8-3.5 D OIS
Leica D Vario-Elmarit 14-50mm f/2.8-3.5 ASPH

Micro Four-Thirds Lens IR Hotspot Performance

Good Performers
Poor Performers
Olympus M ED 9-18mm f/4-5.6 (hotspot after f/11) *
Olympus M. Zuiko 12-50mm f/3.5-6.3 ED (hotspot starting at f/9) *
Olympus 12mm f/2
Panasonic 14-140mm f/4-5.8 (hotspots from 14-25mm) *
Olympus 12-35mm f/2.8
Voigtlander 25mm f/0.95
Panasonic 14mm f/2.5 H-H014
Panasonic Leica 25mm f/1.4
Olympus 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 II R
Olympus M. Zuiko 45mm f/1.8 (slight hotspots) *
Olympus 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 ED Micro
Panasonic 45-200mm f/4-5.6 G Vario MEGA O.I.S. (low contrast in IR)
Panasonic G Vario 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 H-FS014042
Olympus M. Zuiko 75mm f/1.8 ED Lens
Panasonic 14-45mm f/3.5-5.6
Panasonic LUMIX G Leica DG Summilux 15mm f/1.7 ASPH
Olympus M. Zuiko 17mm f/2.8 (hotspot starting at f/12) *
Olympus 10-150mm f/4-5.6 ED MSC
Panasonic Leica Macro 45mm f/2.8

Pentax Lens IR Hotspot Performance

Good Performers
Poor Performers
Pentax SMC-DA 14mm f/2.8 ED IF
Pentax DA 12-24mm f/4 ED AL IF
Pentax SMC-DA 15mm f/4 ED AL Limited
Pentax SMC-DA 16-45mm f/4 ED AL
Pentax SMC-DA 17-70mm f/4
Pentax SMC-DA 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 AD AL IF DC WR
Pentax SMC P-FAJ 18-35mm AL (hotspots start at f/11)
Pentax FA-J 28-105mm
Pentax SMC-DA 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6
Pentax SMCP-D FA 50mm f/2.8 Macro
Pentax SMC-DA 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 II
Pentax SMCP-FA 50mm f/2.8 Macro
Pentax SMC-DA 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 WR
Pentax SMC-DA 50-135mm f/2.8 ED IF *
Pentax SMC-DA 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3
Pentax SMC-DA 55mm f/1.4 SDM *
Pentax M 20mm f/4
Pentax FA 55mm f/2.8 SDM
Pentax SMC-FA 20-35mm f/4 AL
Pentax SMC-FA 100mm f/2.8 Macro
Pentax SMC-FA 28mm f/2.8 AL
Pentax 35mm f/3.5
Pentax SMC-FA 28-70mm f/4
Pentax 200mm f/4
Pentax SMC-FA 28-200mm f/3.8-5.6
Pentax SMC-FA 31mm f/1.8 Limited
Pentax A 35mm f/2 AL
Pentax DA 35mm f/2.8 Macro Limited
Pentax SMC-FA 43mm f/1.9 Limited
Pentax SMCP-FA 50mm f/1.4
Pentax A 50mm f/1.4 MF
Pentax SMCP-FA 50mm f/1.7
Pentax A 50mm f/1.7
Pentax SMCP-A 50mm f/2
Pentax SMC-DA 50-200mm f/4-5.6 ED
Pentax SMC-DA 50-200mm f/4-5.6 ED WR
Pentax 55mm f/1.8 MF
Pentax DA 55-300mm f/4-5.8 ED
Pentax SMCP-DAL 55-300mm f/4-5.8 ED
Pentax SMC DA 60-250mm f/4 ED IF *
Pentax SMC P DA 70mm f/2.4
Pentax SMC-FA 77mm f/1.8 Limited
Pentax FA 85mm f/1.4 *
Pentax SMC-FA 135mm f/2.8 IF
Pentax SMC-DA* 300mm f/4
Pentax SMC-FA* 300mm f/4.5 ED IF
Pentax SMC Takumar 28mm f/3.5
Pentax Super Takumar 35mm f/3.5
Pentax Super Takumar 55mm f/2
Pentax Super Takumar 35mm f/2
Pentax 50mm f/1.4 7 Element

Minolta A-mount Lens IR Hotspot Performance

Good Performers
Poor Performers
Minolta 20mm f/2.8
Minolta AF DT 11-18mm f/4.5-5.6 D
Minolta 24mm f/2.8 RS
Minolta AF 17-35mm f/2.8-4 D
Minolta AF 24-105mm f/3.5-4.5 D
Minolta 35mm f/2 (mild hotspots)
Minolta 28mm f/2
Minolta AF 100mm f/2
Minolta 28-85mm f/3.5-4.5
Minolta 35mm f/1.8 Rokkor-X
Minolta AF 28-135mm f/4-4.5 (soft at telephoto end)
Minolta 135mm f/2.8 Rokkor-X
Minolta A 35mm f/2
Minolta Rokkor MC 35mm f/2.8
Minolta AF 35-70mm f/4
Minolta AF 50mm f/1.7
Minolta AF 50 f/2.8 Macro
Minolta Maxxum AF 70-210mm f/4
Minolta 57mm f/1.4

Tokina Lens IR Hotspot Performance

Good Performers
Poor Performers
Tokina 10-17mm f/3.5-4.5 Fisheye Zoom
Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 AT-X Pro IF SD DX (can have some mild hotspots) *
Tokina 17mm f/3.5 RMC
Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 AT-X Pro IF SD DX II (hotspot starts at f/5.6) *
Tokina 20-35mm f/3.5 *
Tokina 12-24mm f/4 AT-X Pro DX
Tokina 28-70mm f/2.8 AT-X
Tokina 12-24mm f/4 AT-X Pro DX II
Tokina AF 28-70mm f/2.8 AT-X Pro SV *
Tokina 16-50mm f/2.8
Tokina AF 28-70mm f/2.8-5.6 AT-X Pro II
Tokina 28-200mm f/3.5-6.3 SZ-X *
Tokina 14-20mm f/2

Tamron Lens IR Hotspot Performance

Good Performers
Poor Performers
Tamron 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 DI II *
Tamron 11-18mm f/4.5-5.6
Tamron 15-30mm f/2.8 DI VC USD *
Tamron 17-35mm f/2.8-4 SP AF DI LD IF
Tamron 17-28mm f/2.8 DI III RXD
Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 SP AF XR DI-II LD IF
Tamron 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3 DI II LD AF
Tamron 18-50mm f/2.8
Tamron 18-400mm f/3.5-6.3 DI II VC HLD (EOS M)
Tamron 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 AF XR DI II Macro
Tamron 24mm f/2.5
Tamron 19-35mm f/3.5-4.5
Tamron 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6
Tamron SP 20-40mm f/2.7-3.5 (mild hotspot)
Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 DI LD IF Macro
Tamron Adaptall-2 24mm f/2.5
Tamron SP 90mm f/2.8 AF 72E *
Tamron SP AF 24-135 f/3.5-5.6 AD Macro
Tamron 200-500mm f/5-6.3 SP AF DI LD IF
Tamron 28-75mm XR DI LD *
Tamron 500mm f/8 SP Macro
Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 AF XR DI LD
Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 DX (hotspot starting at f/11 at 17mm, no hotspots at any aperture at 50mm)
Tamron 28-105mm f/2.8 AF LD
Tamron 28-75mm DI III
Tamron 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 AF XR DI LD Macro *
Tamron 70-300mm f/4-5.6 AF LD Macro
Tamron 70-300mm f/4-5.6 AF DI LD Macro
Tamron 90mm f/2.8 Macro (hotspot starts at f/8)
Tamron 15-30mm

Zeiss Lens IR Hotspot Performance

Good Performers
Poor Performers
Zeiss Touit 12mm f/2.8
Zeiss 18mm f/3.5 ZE Distagon T*
Zeiss 25mm f/2.8 Distagon T* ZF *
Zeiss 21mm f/2.8 Distagon T* ZE
Zeiss 25mm f/2.8 Distagon ZF-IR
Zeiss 35mm f/2 Distagon ZE
Zeiss 25mm f/2.8 (Contax)
Zeiss 50mm f/1.4 Planar T* (Contax)
Zeiss Jena 35mm f/2.4 Flektogon
Zeiss 50mm f/1.4 ZE Planar T*
Zeiss 50mm f/1.4 IR
Zeiss 85mm f/1.4 Planar T* ZE
Zeiss 50mm f/1.4 Planar ZF-IR
Zeiss 85mm f/2.8 (Contax)
Zeiss 50mm f/1.4 T* Planar (Contax)
Zeiss 100mm f/2 ZK
Zeiss 50mm f/1.7 Planar T* (Context)
Zeiss 50mm f/2 Planar ZM T
Zeiss 50mm f/2 Makro-Planar ZE
Zeiss 100mm f/2 Mikro-Planar
Loxia Zeiss 25mm f/2.4 (mild hotspot starting at f/16)

Samsung Lens IR Hotspot Performance

Good Performers
Poor Performers
Samsung NX 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6
Samsung NX 20-50mm f/3.5-5.6

Other Lens IR Hotspot Performance

Good Performers
Poor Performers
Meike 25mm f/1.8
Voigtlander 10mm f/5.6
Asahi 35mm f/3.5 Super-Takumar
Voigtlander 35mm f/1.4 (bad at all apertures and not sharp)
Asahi 55mm f/1.8 Super-Takumar SMC
Voigtlander 15mm f/4.5 Heliar III
Costal Optics 60mm UV-VIS-IR APO
Voigtlander 125mm f/2.5 APO-Lanthar
Costal Optics 105mm UV-VIS-IR APO
Mitakon 50mm f/0.95 (bad at all apertures)
Contax 28mm f/2.8 Biogon
Soligor 200mm f/2.8 (mild hotspot starting around f/4)
Contax 35mm f/2 Planar
Konica 50mm f/1.4 (hotspot starting at f/4)
Contax 45mm f/2 Planar
Samyang 12mm f/2 NCS CS
Helios-40-2 85mm f/1.5
Canon FD 50mm f/1.4 SCC (hotspot starting at f/8)
Konica 40mm f/1.8
Viltrox 23mm f/1.4 (hotspot starting at f/5.6)
Konica 57mm f/1.4
Hanimar 35mm f/2.8
Leica 35-70mm Vario-Elmar-R f/4 (good to f/11 at 70mm, good to f/8 at 35mm)
Pentacon 50mm f/1.8
Leica 50mm f/1.4 Summilux M (good to f/4)
Miranda 50mm f/1.8
Voigtlander 90mm f/3.5 APO-Lanthar
Fujinon 55mm f/1.8
Leica 90mm f/2.8 Elmarit-M (good to f/8)
Leica APO-Telyt-M 135mm f/3.4
Leica Elmar 135mm f/4
Leica Elmarit-R 180mm f/2.8
Lensbaby II
Lensbaby 50mm f/2.8
Lensbaby 0.6X Wide Angle/Macro Conversion Lens
MTO 500mm f/8
Peleng 8mm f/3.5 Fisheye
Quantaray 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 OS DI
Rokinon (Samyang, Bower, ProOptic) 35mm f/1.4
Rokinon 135mm f/2.0 ED UMC
Samyang/Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye
Samyang 8mm f/3.5 Fisheye
Samyang 12mm f/2 (Good until f/8 with lens profile applied in Adobe CC)
Samyang 14mm f/2.8 IF ED UMC *
Samyang 24mm f/3.5 ED AS UMC Tilt-Shift
Samyang/Sirius/Cambron 18-28mm f/4-4.5
Samyang/Vivitar/Rokinon 85mm f/1.4
Soligor 21mm f/3.8
Vivitar 24mm f/2.8 MF
Voigtlander Ultra Wide-Heliar 12mm f/5.6
Voigtlander Ultron 28mm f/2
Voigtlander Ultron 35mm f/1.7 (Good until f/8, mild to noticeable hotspot from f/8-16)
Voigtlander Nokton 35mm f/1.2
Voigtlander Nokton 35mm f/1.2 II
Voigtlander 35mm f/2.5 Color Skopar
Voigtlander 40mm f/1.4
Voigtlander Ultron 40mm f/2 SL II
Voigtlander Heliar 75mm f/1.8
Zenitar MC 16mm f/2.8 Fisheye
Hasselblad HC 50-110mm f/3.5-4.5
Meike 12mm f/2.8
Meike 35mm f/1.4
Voigtlander 35mm f/2.5 MC LM (hotspot starting at f/8)
Voigtlander 35mm APO Lanthar f/2
Voigtlander 50mm APO Lanthar f/2
Voigtlander 65mm APO Lanthar (hotspot starting at f/16)
Voigtlander 110mm Macro APO Lanthar f/2.5 (hotspot starting at f/16)
Konica 28mm f/3.5 Hexanon
Konica AR 35mm f/2.8
Konica AR 135mm f/3.2 Hexanon
Konica 200mm f/3.5
Konica 200mm f/4
Vivitar 19mm f/3.5
Vivitar 200mm f/3.5 m42
Canon FD 24mm f/2.8
Canon FD 35mm f/2.8
Canon FL 85mm f/1.8
Minox Color-Minotar 35mm f/2.8
Topcor 58mm f/1.8 (hotspot starting at f/11)
YUS (Yashica) 28mm f/2.8 C/Y
YUS (Yashica) 135mm f/2.8 C/Y
Yashica 50mm f/1.8 ML C/Y (hotspot starting at f/11)

214 Responses

  1. Now that Kolari Vision is offering AR coating for the sensors the Hoot Spot list will most likely need to be revised for people who get the AR coating.

  2. Konica 50mm f1.4 — terrible hot spot all the way down to f4
    Konica 57mm ƒ1.4 — no hot spot at all

    I test by using a tree in my alley and centering the lens int he open sky just above the bright trees. My camera is 720nm A7II. No AR coating.

    1. i bought and tried the Konica 57mm f1.4. correct, absolutely no hot spots any any setting. i also needed some wide angle so i also used my zeiss zf-ir 24mm f/2.8 lens and wow, there’s a big noticeable difference in contrast and sharpness without having to pixel peep. not bad, but i want something a little better so you’ll see one for sale on ebay soon.

  3. Samyang T-S 24mm f3.5 ED AS UMC on converted to full spectrum Canon 50D.
    Outstanding resolution, no hot spot on every aperture.
    Perfect for visible and IR spectrum.
    Tested on visible light, 690nm and 720nm.

  4. On a Canon 40D with 590nM conversion, I can confirm the Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX HSM DC* hotspots that start to appear at f/13 and is visible at f/22. I’d say it’s mild from examples I’ve seen posted by others from other lenses.

  5. ZEISS 50mm f/2 Planar ZM T* : No problem at all
    Voigtlander 35mm f/2.5 Color Skopar Leica M mount : No problem at all
    Just to be more precise about the FUJI XF 27mm f/2.8, it’s usable at f/4 no hot spot visible,it begins to be very faint and wide at f/5.6, very bright small hot spot at f/16.
    All the tests were done on FUJI X-Pro1 camera.

  6. I just got testing a Sigma 35mm Art lens on my Kolarivision converted 60D and experience a hot spot at all apertures smaller than F2.8. The intensity increases as the aperture size decreases and is really intolerable at F6.7 or smaller. At apertures wider than F2.8 you really have to look for it.

  7. I’ve got the Fuji 16 F 1.4 – very bad at all apertures past F2.8 and not so good at 2.8 and lower. The only good thing to say about the otherwise wonderful lens is that the hot spot does not have a hard, harsh border, and is very wide – hiding the effect a bit.

  8. I would like to see the newer Fuji lenses tested. In my limited trials, I find the Fuji 35mm F2.0 to be an excellent performer, but the autofocus tends to hunt. The 16mm 1.4 is terrible. Autofocus doesn’t work at all. The 90mm is good from 2.0 to 5.6.

  9. So I have gone crazy with testing Standard/Normal old glass over the past three months. I shoot a pair of oak trees in front of my apartment building late in the afternoon. Testing season will be done soon 🙁

    Konica AR 57mm ƒ1.4 – fantastic lens both color and IR.
    Konica AR 50mm ƒ1.4 – well defined hot spot from ƒ4
    Konica AR 50mm ƒ1.7 – clean lens, great performer
    Konica AR 50mm ƒ1.8 – hot spot looks like smudges in the imager after ƒ11, also Ninja Star
    Mamiya Sekor 55mm ƒ1.8 SX – clean lens that has smudge Hot Spot after ƒ11
    Mamiya Sekor 55mm ƒ1.8 – clean great performer
    Olympus 50mm ƒ1.4 Zuiko – Ninja Star, and bad hot spot, really bad
    Olympus 50mm ƒ3.5 Macro Zuiko – lovely performer, sharp and no hot spot
    Canon FD 50 ƒ1.8 – clean great performer
    Canon FD 50mm ƒ1.4 – one of the worst from ƒ4 on
    Minolta MD 50mm ƒ2 – visible hot spot starting at ƒ8
    Minolta 50mm ƒ1.7 Rokkor – clean nice lens
    Minolta MD 50mm ƒ1.7 Rokkor-X – clean great performer
    Minolta MD 50mm ƒ1.4 Rokkor-PG – terrible hot spot one of the worst starting at ƒ5.6
    Minolta 50mm ƒ1.7 AF – clean but the lack of live preview of aperture is a no-go
    Yashica 50mm ƒ1.5 Yashinon DS-M – Bad, really bad, one of the worst
    Nikon 50mm ƒ2 Nikkor pre-AI – clean sharp and no hot spot
    Nikon 50mm ƒ1.4 Nikkor pre-AI – not terrible just unusable after ƒ8
    Nikon GN 45mm ƒ2.8 Nikkor – crazy sharp and no hot spot.
    Fuji 55mm ƒ1.8 Fujinon – Ninja Star, nice lens otherwise with slight smudging at tine apertures
    Pentax 50mm ƒ1.8 Takumar – No hot spot, but not as sharp or interesting as the Konica/Mamiya/Minolta lenses.

    So what can we learn from all of this.

    1. The Konica 57mm ƒ1.4 is the only ƒ1.4 that I have tested that has no hot spot at all. Combine that with it’s color performance and despite my best efforts to replace it, I still find it to be a winner.

    2. The color and bokeh of the ƒ1.4 lenses all made me happy with the exception of the Ninja Star issue on the Oly. If I was not shooting IR there is not a loser among the rest.

    3. I have not tested any m39, M, Pentax 50mm ƒ1.4, Leica R or Contax lenses.

    4. Simpler design seems to make for less hot spots. Though that is not always the case. The ƒ1.8-ƒ2 lenses seem at worst to have more of a smudging issue or than the cheap Minolta 50mm ƒ2.

    5. I own too many of these lenses and need to sell off most of them.

    1. Since these test I have tested a few more.

      Pentax 50/1.4 7 element — Only the 2nd 1.4 that I have ever tested that matches the Konica 57mm. I have also tested two different versions of the Konica and both have same great results.
      Pentax 35/2 Super-Takumar — big heavy lens that delivers fantastic results.
      Konica AR 135/3.2 Hexanon – my favorite 135 of all time. This lens is light weight, compact, crazy sharp, and clean hotspot results. Crazy short focus distance, if you love shooting flowers this is an amazing lens. I also bought it for $5 out of a bargain bin!
      Konica AR 35mm ƒ2.8 – older Hexanon version and excellent results.
      Konica 28/3.5 Hexanon – Great results some hint of smudging past f11.
      Konica 200/4 — great results. I love this lens.
      Konica 200/3.5 — great results
      Vivitar 200/3.5 m42 — Fantastic lens, great Hot Spot results.
      Vivitar 19mm/3.5 — Not the sharpest lens in my kit, but clean IR results
      Canon FL 85/1.8 – a lot to love about this lens other than weight — classic all metal construction, sharp and clean IR results.
      Canon FD 24/2.8 — some smudging at ƒ11
      Canon FD 35/2.8 – very clean results
      Nikkor 35/2 Pre-Ai, really nice lens with clean results.
      Nikkor 135/3.5 Pre-Ai, clean lens, just not as sharp as some of my other 135s
      Voigtlander 35mm ƒ2.5 MC LM — hot spots at ƒ8
      Minox Color-Minotar 35mm ƒ2.8 — this is m39 converted from the legendary Minox cameras and it gives great results. Downsides are 4 sided bokeh, and fidgety to use thanks to a tiny aperture ring.
      Topcor 58mm ƒ1.8 — I have two of these and was not impressed with either. Hotspots start at around ƒ11.
      YUS (Yashica) 28/2.8 C/Y — this is simply an amazing lens — my hands down favorite 28 for any purpose.
      YUS (Yashica) 135/2.8 C/Y — next to the Konica 135/3.2 this is the best 135 I have ever tested, sharp, contrasty, and no Hot Spot issues.
      Yashica 50/1.8 ML C/Y — stay below ƒ11 and watch how you shoot with it.

      There are other lenses I have tested and to be frank was not impressed. Hot spot issues were not terrible, just not what I was looking for in terms of other results:
      Hanimar 35/2.8, Pentacon 50/1.8, Fujinon 55/1.9, Miranda 50/1.9, Pentax 35/3.5, Pentax 200/4, Minolta 35/1.8 Rokkor-X, Minolta 135/2.8 Rokkor-X, Olympus 28/3.5, Nikkor 28mm ƒ3.5 Pre-Ai.

    2. I heard nothing but good things about the Minolta 57mm f/1.4 so i got one.
      it’s true. no hot spots and nice color, but it was not sharp at all. it’s cheaper and easier to just get a point and shoot modified camera if you want this kind of softness.

    3. I can add a lens to your list. The Minola MC ROKKOR-PF 58mm f1.4. I just compared it side by side to the Konica 57 f1.4. THEY ARE BOTH COMPARABLY SUPERB. If I had to choose, I’d go with the Minolta. But they’re both very close to perfect.

  10. fujifilm 23mm f2 has NO hotspots using R72 filters at any aperture

    new lens to add, been using same a LOT

    “angry photographer” on youtube channel , thats me

    1. Find a tree with full canopy of leaves. Set camera up on tripod and aim center at a sky just above the foliage. I have an Oak that has a nice V shaped area I aim at. You want a cloudless sky – make sure the sun is not in or near the image area. Shade it out if needed. I start at minimum f16-f22 and then work back in full stops while looking through the lens. If you are going to have an issue it will be obvious at smaller apertures. Most lenses with issues lose their spot at around f4-8. If you read my earlier note I have done way to much testing.

  11. Fuji 35/2 very good at all apertures. Database re: Fujifilm lenses agrees w/ my Pro & Con experience. Thanks for publishing the database

  12. Your database shows that the OLYMPUS 12-50 has poor performance after f/9.
    The fact is : ALL 4/3 and micro 4/3 lens start to perform badly after f/8, from Diffraction Limit. No exception.

    I use 12-50 for over 1,000 images. None has hot spot.

    1. Note : Personal Opinion.

      Almost all MF lenses of film era have IR marking.
      Does that mean it have to be able to handle IR beautifully?

      If the MF is not tested on modified IR mirrorless camera, I believe that all MF lens will perform poorly because the IR ray __is designed__ to be focused at the different plane from visible light.

  13. Hello, I’d keen about what’s wrong with the Canon TS-E 24mm f3.5 L II, listed in bad performers: “Canon TS-E 24 mm f3.5 L II* (see comments for details)”. Cannot find anything in the comments here. Many thanks for your help!

  14. No dis-respect, but take this list with the proverbial grain of salt. Listed above as a “Poor performer” is the Nikkor 24mm F2.8. However, I get excellent results from my Nikkor 24mm, F2.8 on my converted D7000. Now I have the narrow filter, and shoot only in the deep 850 nm range.

    However, the Nikkor-NC Auto, 24mm F2.8 lens, all versions, is not a great lens. IR or everyday shooting. If you use that lens on any full frame camera, and compare shots side by side, you’ll see the difference in sharpness on any photograph.

    So I suspect the poor rep is based on the N or the NC version. This manual focus lens is still made new today. if any of you still want to dump one off cheap, just let me know. 🙂

    1. yes, the problem too is that i doubt people are testing every focal length on zooms and every aperture and every type of IR filter (590,665,720,850nm). so you’ll only get a general idea from this list but it’s the biggest list i’ve seen. hot spots are the most frustrating part of IR phtography.

  15. I find that Nikkor 17-55 has hot spots over f/5.6 or on times over 20 sec.
    The same with Nikkor 18-55 VR II but definitely less visible hot spots on this lens.

  16. i’d like to add to the list:
    olympus 12-100 f/4 (very bad hot spots)
    leica 8-18 f/2.8-4 (no hot spots)
    leica 12mm f/1.4 (no hot spots)

    1. I went ahead and purchased this for $125 and it performs like a champ on my 850nm converted 5D Mark III. I sold my Sigma Art 50mm for a couple reasons and one of them was the terrible hot spot.

  17. Olympus OM 21mm f/3.5 Auto-W performs well from 660nm and longer wavelengths at f11 or lower without hotspots and very little chromatic fringing at corners at f8 or higher.

        1. Well, I had one, so believe me it’s not good, this article it’s only about hotspot, probably is hotspot free, but it’s terrible otherwise…

  18. a few other aditional lensdata not in list, I take ir /uv photo’s since 2008 (modded Nikon D200): Good performers: Tokina ATX Macro 90mm f2.5 ; Tokina 17mm SL f3.5 ; Sigma EX 50mm DG; Sigma EX APo 100-300 f4 ; Sigma 180mm f3,5 APO Macro HSM; Sigma EX 15mm fisheye. Nikkor AIS 105mm f2.5 ; AIS 80-200 f4. E serie 35mm f2.5 also suberb in UV! AI Micro 55mm f3.5. Sigma EX 10-20 f3.5 does well. Samyang 14mm f2.8 UMC, IRIX 15mm f2.4 . Voiglander 40mm Ultron f2 (nikonversion) . BAd performers: Nikkor AIS 28mm f2.8 (with CRC) , Tokina ATX 12-24 f4 dx ,

    1. The 7artisans 7.5mm f/2.8 fisheye works well enough in the infrared, with slight corner softness and slight color fringing in high contrast. I used f/5.6

  19. Two more lenses for the list:

    Rokinon 24mm tilt-shift with full-frame Sony e-mount. No hotspots observed at all.
    Sony 70-300 G in full-frame Sony e-mount. Nasty hotspots at wide end, OK at 300 with widest aperture.

    1. Hi again, So I have just tested out my Hoyar72 77mm filter on the Tamron 24-70 g2 lens, (I taped it onto the 82mm lens and blocked the edges as best as possible.)
      Pleased to report no visible HotSpots till f22, then of course it’s quite small by then.

      Just ordered a 82mm R72.

      Other data (camera exp, f, iso etc in the metadata of the files).

  20. Hello friends,

    How do they behave in Infrared Photography, the next lenses: the Canon 16-35 f/2.8 III and the Canon 24-70 f/2.8 II?

    Thanks for your help.

    Regards,

  21. Fujinon XF 10-24 f/4 – hot spot in the center. Rather bad…
    Fujinon XC 16-50 f3.5-5.6 – mild hot spot.

    Both tested on X Pro 1 converted to full spectrum.

  22. i get some hot pink in the center when doing faux color at f/11 with a Zeiss 50mm f/2.0 Makro-Planar.
    i don’t notice it when doing mono IR though. that is probably why it’s in the left/good column.

    1. YUS 28 and 135 are fantastic values and fantastic lenses with little or no Hot Spot issues

      50/1.8 ML has issues with small apertures, and the DSB 50/1.4 simply sucks at IR.

  23. IR 720nm filter converted Nikon D7000. I have tested 6 lenses, all of these are hotspot free up to f/8 (no reason to test smaller apertures on crop sensor, f/8 provides huge DoF, everything is in focus for most IR shots). The biggest difference between lenses is sharpness and color.
    – Sigma 50 Art, the best lens I have tried. No hotspots and very very sharp. Wickedly sharp.
    – Sigma 105 OS Macro, no hotspots and very sharp.
    – Sigma 18-35, no hotspots and very sharp. Corners are slightly soft at 18mm, but slightly zoomed in, the lens is sharp corner to corner.
    – Tamron 10-24 VC, very soft corners at wider angles, from 16-24mm corners are very good with very little softness. Center is very sharp throughout the zoom range. My favorite lens for IR.
    – Nikkor 18-55 VR1, no hotspots but very soft corners and widest setting, gets better when zoomed in, but overall sharpness is not as good as Tamron 10-24 or Sigma 18-35.
    – Nikkor 50 f/1,8 AI, no hotspots but soft corners and not as sharp as Sigma 50 Art.
    – Sigma 10-20 f/4-5,6, no hotspots, soft and as with other lenses, corners are sharper when zoomed in.
    At first I made custom WB using Tamron 10-24 VC, but when I use Sigma lenses with that WB preset there is slight orange tint, I don’t know how else to explain this, pictures are slightly more flat in contrast compared to those made with Tamron 10-24. When I made custom WB preset for Sigma lenses it was much much better, but Tamron is better again when using the same WB preset, it’s like IR response is much better with that lens. Nikkor 18-55 and 50 AI are as good as Tamron, good IR response and great contrast. Basically if lens 1 is better then lens 2, this behavior translates to IR as well, at least when it comes to sharpness. I was astound when I realized just how sharp Sigma 50 Art is in IR.

    1. I actually bought the FE 85mm 1.8 (not quite for landscape IR purposes) and can testify it actually works pretty well. Made a session with it during sunset, and seem to be OK with very mild hotspot at f/14 and beyond. IMHO f/14 is not the most common use case. So perhaps there are different batches or something. SEL85F18 is the model I have.

    2. Tried it at f8, it’s I think the worst hotspot I’ve ever seen on any lens at that aperture. This is on an APS-C A5100. Shots do seem usable in black and white, but in color it’s absolutely atrocious. After RGB-BGR channel flip there’s a massive yellow stain in the middle.

  24. Hot spots noted with Sony 16-35mm f2.8 G lens at above f8; same with Sony 24-105mm f4 G lens & with Zeiss 18mm f2.8mm lens. What a dissappointment.

  25. I rented two Sony lenses last week to use with a newly converted Sony AR7III Camera
    I had issues with a 24-240 lens before I had consulted your data base.

    I found the Vario-Tessar T FE 24-70 F$ ZA OSS Lens to perform well as listed in your data base.

    I had wanted a little longer reach so I also tried (rented) the Sony FE 24-105 G OSS Lens also
    This lens should be added to your poor performer list for Sony as it had the hot spots at every setting
    It looked to me like F4 at 105 mm was the only usable setting.

    Dennis Stone

    1. Hello Denns.. I read your article and I think you can get me out of my doubts: I Wanted to buy a Sony A7R II to modify it to full spectrum but I saw in the page of Shop kolariVision… “WARNING: This camera contains an internal diagnostic IR Led. This can cause light leaks when using very long exposures and high ISOs in the H-alpha and IR enabled conversion, in the range of 30 second exposures at 6.400 ISO. Can also have fine horizontal artifacts across the frame in highlighted areas in the IR enabled conversion due to the different sensitivity of some rows of pixels. “… This same text says for the Sony A7 RIII and I would like to ask if the “fine horizontal artifacts ” are greatly appreciated and if they really affect the sharpness… Thank you

  26. Zeiss F-Distagon 16 mm C/Y on Canon 5DII full spectrum. Custom converted lens version with internal UV, 590, 720, and 1000 nm filters. Good performer, but with 1000 nm filter the lens does not focus to infinity. However with a bit of stopping down (f/8) the infinity focus is essentially at the hyperlocal distance, so still works. No hotspot even wide open. Extreme corners are a bit softer, as expected from a rectangular fisheye.

  27. Could you recommend IR suitable lens from m42 mount? I love my Helios 44-2 58/2 but wasn’t able to find reliable feedback how this lens works with IR filer. But I’m happy to try other m42 lenses if you recommend some 🙂 .

  28. Excellent resource, thank you! The Tamron 24-70 versions are missing, my most used lens. How does one test this best? I could contribute my results.

  29. I looked at the Nikon list, and I found some funny lenses:
    Nikon 70-80 mm f/4.5-5.6 ED AF-D VR Micro NON EXISTENT!
    Even if ve corrected the focal length to 70-180 mm, there would still be an extra VR (70-180mm Micro-Nikkor has never been produced in the VR version)

    Then, you have a triple listing of the 85mm PC Micro
    Nikon 85mm f/2.8 PC Micro
    Nikon 85mm f/2.8 PC-E Micro
    Nikon 85mm f/2.8 D PC-E Micro

    Probably should boil down to two, at least if we give credit to Roland Vink’s Nikkor Lens Version Database
    Nikon 85mm f/2.8D PC Micro
    Nikon 85mm f/2.8D PC-E Micro
    Both lenses communicate the distance to the body via the contacts, the more recent one has an Electronic Aperture control.

    And then there’s this one:
    Nikon 105mm f/2.8G AF-S VR IF-ED
    For consistency with the rest of the list (all other micro Nikkors are marked as such), it should read
    Nikon 105mm f/2.8G AF-S VR IF-ED Micro

  30. I have a Canon 5D Mark III that’s converted to Kolari 850nm monochrome and was looking for a substitute for my Sigma 50 Art. I bought the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM and I haven’t had any issues with it. I also use it on my non-IR Mark IV bodies with great success. It’s surprisingly good for $125. 🙂

  31. I converted a Sony NEX 5N with SEL1855 that I got on Ebay. Full spectrum conversion and mostly I use IR720 and IR680 filters. At first I thought SEL1855 was performing, then over time I realize it is one giant hot spot at F 3.5 in most cases. You can dial the hot spot from giant covering 2/3 screen from center down to a bright pinpoint at F22. Most daylight shots are highly problematic. You won’t notice sometimes then you look when you get back to the computer and you realize there is a huge brightened circle of light distorting the image. You can avoid the hot spot and make it work on some angles, but when it gets in the way during daylight photos you will have very difficult time. I would suggest a follow up and review this lens again because I have had to look for alternatives and have many many photos with the large glow of the hot spot which is more like a giant hot circle.

  32. I remade the fuji xe-2 into a full spectrum. I started having problems after Canon. No lenses! Almost everyone gives a hot spot. Samyang 12/2, Fuji 16-50, Fuji 18 / 2.0 can be used – up to 2.8, 18-55- always a hot spot, Fuji 55-200- ok is always. Sinma 10-20 / 4-5,6 – always a point (starting with a blurred). Canon 17-0 and 18-105 – no until 11!
    What is sigma 10-20 / 3,5 ?????????
    Tell me the 10-12-14 mm wide corner !!!!!!!!!!!!!! for fuji.
      Vladimir, Russia.

  33. Hello.. Please.. I can recommend zoom and fixed targets for the Sony a7r II that you have security that do not produce Hotspot…?
    And Tamron 28-75 mm F/2.8… What do you know?

    1. Lee, did you get any feedback on the Nikon 28-300 VR? I seriously want to get one for my walk around IR shooting. I suspect it will be like my other better Nikon Zoom lenses… good into you stop down past f/8. I could live with that.

  34. Fuji 35mm f2 gave me some color shift in the middle at f5.6.
    Fuji 15-45 works ok. Start to see mild hot spot around f8.
    Tested on x-t10 full spectrum converted with 590nm/720nm

  35. After seeing the Minolta 50 f/2.8 AF Macro in the Good column, i got one. It’s sharp but when shooting landscape scenes at f/11, you can see a mild but noticeable hotspot (warmer and brighter) in the center. I’ll keep it for my other color camera (A99ii).
    I reconfirmed that the Minolta 50 f/1.7 has no hot spots at f/11. color and brightness are even, even when channel swapping. Although, sharpness is not as good as the 50 f/2.8.

  36. Has anyone tried Kaxinda 25mm f/0.95 ? the reviews for normal use is good, and it’s quite cheap – 175$ brand new. So i wonder how is it for hotspots

  37. Has anyone tried Kaxinda 25mm f/0.95 ? the reviews for normal use is good, and it’s quite cheap – 175$ brand new. So i wonder how is it for hotspots

  38. Hallo
    Ich weiß nicht,ob ohne “Hotspot” oder?
    Nur neu Nikon AF-S Nikkor 16-80mm F2. 8-4.0 E ED VR 72mm???
    Aber nur sehr gut frei “Hotspot”
    Alt nur Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 16-85mm F3. 5-5.6 ED G VR 67mm!

    Pierre Rechenberg

    1. Just looked at my set of test files again and I see no hotspots throughout the range of the 16/2.8 WR. Anecdotally, very happy in use along w/ 23/2, 35/2 & 50/2 WR on X-Pro2 converted to 665nm by Kolari. Limited use of the Laowa 9mm owned by a friend, but nothing jumped out me as an issue. HTH.

      TB

  39. I am planning to have an A7r modified. The information I find in google searches about lenses, however, is inconsistent. I have the Sony 55mm, and it seems to be generally agreed to be excellent at all apertures. I also have the Sony 16-35 (f4) and the 35mm (f 2.8), about which there are conflicting reports. I would like to have a native Sony mount lens, probably 35mm or 28mm but possibly 24mm that has no problem at any aperture. I am looking for a smaller lens (the Sony 35mm, 1.4 is a monster). Something like the Sony 35, 2.8, without the reported limitation. There is a report at Lens Rentals that says the Zeiss lenses are good, but it does not give specifics. If it is good for IR the Loxia 35 would be excellent.

  40. Tamron 24-70 is awesome btw.
    I did not see it listed. Of all the lenses that I own, the 24-70 is the only one that works best for Ir. No hot spots even stopped down, and no issues to report whatsoever.

    5d4 + 24-70 + Ir filter 720nm

    1. I tested it on the A7 @ 850nm. It performed better on APS-C however, perhaps because it doesn’t look like a traditional hotspot.

  41. Nikon Z7, FS (AR/AS) conversion, 850nm AR Kolari filter:

    Nikkor S 24-70/4: outstanding to f/11. Central hotspot thereafter. All focal lengths are good.

    Nikkor S 24-70/2.8: acceptably mediocre at 2.8 with diffuse, mild hotspot. Unuseable beyond f/4. Focal length is irrelevant.

    Nikkor S 14-30/4: outstanding to at least f/11. Never use the lens beyond that. All focal lengths are good.

    1. Mike, I wanted to add my observations using a Z6 and the Nikkor S 24-70/4… First signs of hotspots was at f/10 but was almost invisible and did not really change until f/16. And pointing the camera in some directions (as to where the sun was), I saw no hotspots at all even at the smallest aperture.

    2. Also, I do have some information on the Nikkor Z 50 1.8 S lens. It followed almost exactly the same pattern as I observed with my Nikkor S 24-70/4. Hot spots stated at f/10, but was almost invisible and did not really change until f/16. And in certain angles from the sun, I saw no hotspots at all in any aperture.

    1. i have the 8-18 Panaleica and it’s the best ultra-wide zoom for m4/3 i can find so far. although, there is a huge mild warm spot you’d only notice if you do faux color processing. i have been fixing it in photoshop and it’s less noticeable if you use a 590 or 665nm filter (instead of a 720).

      if anyone knows of an ultra wide zoom for m4/3 that’s relatively sharp with no need for post process fixing of hot spots at any aperture and any focal length (a lot to ask for), please let me know.

  42. Fujifilm XF 23mm F2 R WR: An excellent performer, I’ve never encountered hot spots under normal shooting conditions. This is my default lens for most IR situations.

    Fujifilm XF 50mm f/2 R WR: The best performer WRT hot spots on X-mount in my experience. You may be able to force one artificially but I’ve tried and have failed thus far.

    Fujifilm XF 14mm f/2.8: I was getting mild IR hot spots / halos as low as f/5.6 and returned it.

    ZEISS Touit 12mm f/2.8 for Fujifilm X-mount: An excellent performer that I bought to replace the XF 14mm. This is now my primary wide angle lens for IR.

  43. For Sony E mount (i.e. APS-C):

    – the Zonlai 22 mm f/1.8 appears to have no hotspot, at least shot at f8. Hyperfocal setting for infrared at f8 is to set the focus ring at 1 m (~3ft), and the results are then acceptably sharp to me. For landscape and general city shooting, I basically just do this and don’t even bother to check focus. Manual focus at closer distances and with wider apertures provides detailed results as well (e.g. portrait). I was planning of getting rid of this lens, but it’s now my favorite for IR. It is a bit prone to lens flare though in situations where the sun is positioned very unfavourably.

    – the Sony 35 mm f/1.8 has no hotspot, is sharp and works fine. I mostly don’t use it for IR on account of it living almost full time on the regular camera.

    – the Meike 6.5 mm f/2.0 fisheye is basically unusable, as it doesn’t seem able to achieve focus for infrared.

    – the Samyang/Rokinon 12 mm f/2.0 NCS CS has a pretty significant hotspot (tested at f8). It is otherwise sharp. Hyperfocal setting at f8 for infrared is to focus just left of the “0” in “0.5 m” on the focus scale.

    1. I have tested the Sony 35mm f/1.8 on a full frame Sony (A7 & A7III) @ 850nm and it was really bad. Unusable throughout the range: kolarivision.com//kolarivision.com//www.edwardnoble.com/sony-35-18
      There could be a difference on APS-C (I have seen that before), but for me this lens is worse than the Sony/Zeiss 35mm f/2.8 which is already notoriously bad.

      1. I should clarify my comment was about the SEL35F18 (the crop lens of 35mm/1.8), rather than the SEL35F18F (the full frame lens with the same specs).

  44. These are my results regarding hot spots for lenses not in the database using an Olympus E-M5 with an uncoated 720nm conversion.
    Poor performers: Olympus 8mm f1.8 fisheye
    Decent performers with mild hot spots: Olympus 12-40/2.8, Laowa 7.5mm f2.0, Olympus 12-50 f3.5/6.3
    Excellent performers: Olympus 9mm F8 fisheye body cap (pronounced soft edges), Panasonic Leica 100-400 f4.0-6.3.

    1. Thanks for the tests. I have also gotten hot spots with the 12-40 but have not tried it at all focal lengths and apertures yet. I am awaiting filters to test the Laowa 7.5. Did you shoot all your lenses wide open or if not, at what apertures and focal lengths?

  45. Hello People!
    Found a new favorite and it’s working great for infrared.
    Tamron 35-150 2.8/4
    I was able to test it finally. Happy to report that no hotpot issues encountered so far. I did some quick tests at different focal lengths and upto f8, and was not able to produce any hotspots.
    So yep this is my second lens that works great for infrared.

    Hope this helps!

  46. Tamron 17-35mm f/2.8-4 DI OSD at f/5.6 on Nikon D810 with 82mm HOYA R72 IR 720nm: no hot spot. Didn’t test at smaller apertures. f/2.8 @17mm and f/5.6 @35mm being the sharpest apertures for this zoom lens.

  47. Hello all,
    Just a note to all of you about lenses. Lens manufacturers attempt to make the same designated lens consistent over time, with the transmission of visible light.
    The lens manufacturers have to buy glass, grind the glass and in most cases coat the glass with various
    coatings. Glass produced by different glass companies can vary in composition, current production and over time. The lens makers work with various coating materials that can change over time.
    Then the lens makers tweak lens elements, such as using optical plastics in newer versions of any designated lens. On top of all that change, manufacturing tools, jigs, and testing equipment wears in use. A lens made and tested on new equipment can be slightly different to the lens made on the older equipment. What that means is each of the lenses will be within designed tolerances, but different nevertheless. Cheaper lenses can be as sharp and as good a performers as expensive professional lenses. But they also wear out faster. The various gears, cams, aperture controls, etc.,in any lens wears over time. These components can be metal in an older lens, and plastic or engineered polymers in newer lenses.Plastic doesn’t necessarily equate to bad. And then then we have the greases used in the lenses. Grease thickens or hardens over time. For instance Nikon greases stand up over time and Leica grease has to be dug out and replaced every 20 years or so.
    There are optical companies that make lenses for a large number of different camera makers and lens re-sellers. So the same lens can be sold under different brand names.
    On top of all that, the lens makers are trying to eliminate the transmission of UV and IR light and improving the transmission of visible light.
    So you are trying to make a lens do something that it is designed to NOT do.
    Taking into account all the variables involved, of course some lenses show “inconsistent” results in IR and UV testing.
    What that all means is that any copy of any lens can vary in almost any test or application.

    1. I have tested the 21mm (terrible) and the 50m (not too bad). I wouldn’t recommend either however since the Sony / Zeiss 55mm f/1.8 is far better for IR than the Loxia 50mm. I’m still curious about the 85mm because I would like a native mount IR lens in the focal range that takes 49mm filters.

  48. Hi,
    I have been using the Nikon 24 – 120mm 3.5 with HOYA R72 filter and when used at f9 there is no hotspot. I bought the Nikon 20mm 1.8 specifically for my Infrared photos as I wanted a sharper lens and Im yet to find an aperture that eliminates the hotspot. Im very disappointed and will now need to sell the lens. I do however own a NIKON 14mm – 24mm 2.8 lens but because my camera is not converted to IR so I need to use the Infrared filter. I have not been able to find a filter to suit anywhere. Does anyone know a solution for this. NISI and NEEWER don’t make the infrared filter and would this work anyway? Any advice???
    Mandy Mahn

  49. Results from a quick test on a Fujinon XC 15-45mm. X-E1 full spectrum and Zomei filters. x = Hotspot
    f.3.5 f5.6 f8 f11 f16 f22
    15mm
    720nm x
    950nm x
    45mm
    720nm x x
    950nm x x x

  50. Results from a quick test on a Fujinon XC 15-45mm. X-E1 full spectrum and Zomei filters. At 15mm with 720nm and 950nm no hotspot until f22. At 45mm with 720nm hot spot starting at f16 and with 950nm starting at f11

  51. I have tried the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM Lens and it suffers rather badly produces large hotspots. I would avoid this lens for IR.

  52. Since I couldn’t find info on these I got to test two newer lenses at a store today and can report on performance (this is on a new full spectrum conversion with pro AR coating on an A7R IV). New Sigma 24-70 f2.8 DG DN lens for sony (l mount is the same): Poor IR performance and noticeable hotspots above f10. It could be worse at lower apertures too I was only looking through the viewfinder outside the store so it was hard to tell, but it was clearly visible at f10 and up so probably not great below either if I had a better environment to test/review. Interestingly my sigma 14-24 DG DN is better for IR from the quick tests I’ve done, but limited to cutting gels in the back.

    The tamron 17-28 f2.8 for sony was excellent and no noticeable hotspots just like the tamron 28-75 I already have. This lens I will buy soon.

    1. Finally I tested the lens yesterday in a shop with a Hoya R72 and my Nikon D810. With an open apperture there is a slight hot spot, but with smaller ones (I tested 8 and 11) it gets impressive. At the end I didn‘t purchase the lens.

  53. I just received the new Sony FE 20mm f/1.8 G lens. Bought it for night photography, and checked it also on my Sony A7iii with 590nm IR. Bad hotspot clearly noticeable after f/4. Without overly processing in post, f/4 is the last useful aperture.

  54. I definitely need to contribute too 😉 Here are the lenses I have tested:
    – Nikon 85mm f/1.4G (model 2195)
    – Nikon AF Micro-NIKKOR 200mm f/4D IF-ED (model 1989)
    – Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 300mm f/4E PF ED VR (model 2223)
    – Rokinon 20mm f/1.8 ED AS (model RK20MAF-N)
    – Samyang 24mm f/3.5 ED AS UMC Tilt-Shift (model SYTS24-N)
    – Sigma 50mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art (model 311306)
    – Sigma 135mm f/1.8 DG HSM (model 240955)
    – Tamron 17-35mm f/2.8-4 DI OSD (model A037N)
    – Tamron SP 35mm f/1.4 Di USD (model F045N)
    – Tamron 35-150mm f/2.8-4 Di VC OSD (model A043N)
    – Tamron SP 70-200 f2.8 Di VC USD G2 (model A025N)
    – Tamron 90mm f/2.8 Di VC USD Macro (model F017N)
    Each one combined with these IR filters:
    – 830nm (Deep B&W IR)
    – 720nm (Standard IR – Hoya R72)
    – 590nm (Super Color IR)

  55. Tried a few lenses on an APS-C Sony body converted for 720nm. Keep in mind that all but one of these lenses is for full frame, and I’m accounting for that. Results:

    — Sony E 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS: Hotspot is way worse at 18mm than the chart says. Hot spot starts to become visible at f/5 and is definitely visible at f/5.6. Fine at other points in the zoom range.

    — Samyang/Rokinon AF 35mm f/1.4: Fairly noticeable hotspot starting around f/4.5 to f/5. Fine wide open.

    — Nikon 80-200 f/4 AI-s: Didn’t notice any hotspots at any point in the zoom range at any aperture.

    — Nikon 300mm f/4.5 AI-s (the non-ED one): Completely useless on APS-C. Not sharp at all wide open and diffraction kicks in before it can be stopped down enough to be useful. May be useful on full frame, but I don’t have a converted full frame camera to test it with. Didn’t notice a hotspot though.

  56. Recently used a EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM mounted on a 590nm converted 6D. Hotpots were evident starting at f8 and clearly intensified with each stop down. Even at f/8 I had hotspots on some images where ISO and shutter were adjusted for uneven ambient lighting. Just as noted in the Kolari database, this lens is a poor performer.

        1. Thank you. Appreciate the reply. I ended up getting a Zeiss Sonnar® T* FE 55 mm F1.8 ZA lens which is great for IR. Still looking for a nice wide angle that is just as great.

  57. I am overall pleased with the Tamron 17-28 f/2.8
    I notice some magenta in the vignette corners when using with 590nm and 720nm. On the 850nm the issue is not present or I haven’t noticed.

  58. i agree with Steve on the Olympus 12-40/2.8 and will add more specifically, mild hot spots starting around f/8 at 12mm, difficult to correct by f/11. so mild that you may not notice them unless you do faux color processing.

  59. I know it’s a long shot, but I really want to know if Fuji’s 2020 updated 10-24 (the WR version) works any better with IR. The original has always been my favorite visible-light landscape lens, but the hotspot is so harsh, it’s unusable at any focal length shorter than 24mm.

  60. Do the hotspot happen only when doing IR? I have a full spectrum and I am planning on getting a hot mirror filter, but wanted to know if I would experience the hotspots when doing Visible Spectrum photography?

  61. Hi, has somebody experienced VILTROX 23mm f1,4?
    With my D800 Full Spectrum I use old Nikon lenses (Ais) 28mm shift, 35mm shift, 85mm f1,4 and 105 f 2,5 with no hot spots, expecially in wide apertures; bad use sigma 24mm 1,4, Nikon 85mm f 1,8 AF (sold!).
    Thanks!

  62. I’ve successfully tested a Zeiss 50mm Planar T* F1.7 (Contax) at all apertures with no hotspots on a Canon 60D Full Spectrum at 720nm
    (Same test shows significant hotspots on Canon EF 50mm F1.4 which is already in Database)

  63. i bought the new Olympus 8-25 f/4 Pro for my color camera but tested it on my full spectrum w/720nm IR filter. it has hot spots, very large, even, warm, all apertures , real bad over f/7.1, mostly correctable post processing.

  64. i’d like to add that i just got an olympus 14-42 II R which shows as a good performer, but don’t agree it’s “good”. there’s a mild correctable hot spot w/720nm filter at f/8, only noticeable when doing faux color processing. you’d never know if you were doing monochrome IR processing.

  65. My assortment of lenses falls somewhere between substantial and “all of them”. And I’m very picky about hot spots. I have rejected dozens of lenses listed in the “good” column above. Like I said, I’m picky. So far, I’ve found seven lenses that show only the faintest hot spot photographing a black subject in the middle of a bright field with the lens stopped down AS FAR AS IT WILL GO. Usually f16 or f22.
    Those seven are……..

    20mm f3.5 Nikon UD. (Their first 20mm) Much better than the 20mm f2.8 Ais.
    28mm f3.5 Nikkor-H Pre Ai. Much better than the 28mm f2.8 Ais, an Emarit M, a Zeiss Distagon, and five others.
    35mm f2.5 Canon FL. Just about perfect. Easily beat eight contenders including several listed in the “good” column.
    40mm f2.8 Canon STM. Just about perfect.
    50mm f1.8 Canon STM. Easily beat a whole bunch of other 50’s including several Nikkors, a Planar, and a Summicron M.
    57mm f1.4 Hexanon AR. Nearly perfect. An exceptionally clean lens.
    58mm f1.4 Minolta MC Rokkor-PF. Just as near perfect as the Hexanon.
    85mm f1.8 Canon FD SSC. Not perfect, but very good and better than Nikon f2 Ais, and the Nikon f1.8D.

    Will report more as I find them, but these are all EXTRAORDINARILY resistant to flaring issues at all f stops.

  66. I can’t believe my favourite IR lens is not listed 🙂
    Sony FE 28-70 f3.5-5.6 has no hotspot at all. I’ve used it on my Full Spectrum A7II and I can’t recall that I ran into hotspot like ever.
    Unfortunately can’t say the same from the Sony FE 24-105 F4 which is quite a bad performer :'(

  67. Hey.
    By the way – add to my regret – the bad lenses Canon Otus 28 / 1.4. Hot spot at 720 and 850 nm.
    For IRCrome it will do, especially if you shoot in RAW.

  68. Hello

    I have tested the TAMRON 50-400mm F/4.5-6.3 Di III VC VXD with very good results
    I have tested 680, 720 and 850 nm
    From 50 – 400 mm from F 4,5 – 22 with full sunlight from the back what is for my experience the most difficult situation

    Up to f 13/14 nothing then it starts with a very soft hot spot by the 680 and 720 nm filter
    I could not detect any hotspot up to f 22 with 850 nm
    The hot spots can be corrected in post

    I also tested the Tamron 28-200mm A071SF F/2.8-5.6 Di III RXD für Sony E-Mount
    It is a very good lens for IR,
    I could not recognize any hotspot on no focal length or aperture
    This in now my referred lens and replace my old Minolta 28-85 mm what is also hot spot free

    I tested with a full spectrum Sony A7 IV

    Regards

    Wolfgang

  69. Just adding some additional Nikon lens hotspot summaries from my recent Nikon z6ii full conversion. I shot about 500 images across an array of lenses using Kolari Chrome, 550, 590, 630, 720 and 850nm filters. These were tested across key aperture ranges and focal lengths.

    I did not include the Nikon 18-35 f/3.5-3.5 D ED nor the Nikon 16-35 f/4 VR in the below results but both showed no hotspots across the ranges. The 70-200mm f/4 VR was also great but did show hotspots with higher apertures (f/16) once above 630nm.

    Here is my findings to add to the discussion

    Kolari Chrome Filter
    1. Nikon z 14-30 f/4 – be careful at 30mm f/16
    2. Nikon z 20 f/1.8 S – stay below f/16
    3. Nikon 28-80 f/3.3-5.6G – no hotspots
    4. Nikon z 50 f/1. 8 S – no hotspots
    5. Nikon 35-105 f/3.5-4.5 D – no hotspots
    6. Nikon 80-200 f/2.8 D ED – no hotspots

    550nm Filter
    1. Nikon z 14-30 f/4 – no hotspots
    2. Nikon z 20 f/1.8 S – stay below f/11
    3. Nikon 28-80 f/3.3-5.6G – no hotspots
    4. Nikon z 50 f/1. 8 S – no hotspots
    5. Nikon 35-105 f/3.5-4.5 D – no hotspots
    6. Nikon 80-200 f/2.8 D ED – no hotspots

    590nm Filter
    1. Nikon z 14-30 f/4 – no hotspots
    2. Nikon z 20 f/1.8 S – stay below f/11
    3. Nikon 28-80 f/3.3-5.6G – no hotspots
    4. Nikon z 50 f/1. 8 S – no hotspots
    5. Nikon 35-105 f/3.5-4.5 D – no hotspots
    6. Nikon 80-200 f/2.8 D ED – no hotspots

    630nm Filter
    1. Nikon z 14-30 f/4 – stay below f/11
    2. Nikon z 20 f/1.8 S – stay below f/8
    3. Nikon 28-80 f/3.3-5.6G – no hotspots
    4. Nikon z 50 f/1. 8 S – stay below f/16
    5. Nikon 35-105 f/3.5-4.5 D – no hotspots
    6. Nikon 80-200 f/2.8 D ED – no hotspots

    720nm Filter
    1. Nikon z 14-30 f/4 – stay below f/8
    2. Nikon z 20 f/1.8 S – do not use
    3. Nikon 28-80 f/3.3-5.6G – no hotspots
    4. Nikon z 50 f/1. 8 S – stay below f/8
    5. Nikon 35-105 f/3.5-4.5 D – stay below f/16
    6. Nikon 80-200 f/2.8 D ED – no hotspots

    850nm Filter
    1. Nikon z 14-30 f/4 – stay below below f/6
    2. Nikon z 20 f/1.8 S – do not use
    2. Nikon 28-80 f/3.3-5.6G – no hotspots
    3. Nikon z 50 f/1. 8 S – stay below f/6
    4. Nikon 35-105 f/3.5-4.5 D – no hotspots
    5. Nikon 80-200 f/2.8 D ED – no hotspots

  70. I started shooting infrared a couple years ago, and wanted to share some findings for anybody that’s also using micro four thirds.

    Panasonic 25mm 1.7
    Probably my favorite overall for 590nm. It’s sharp and produces even colors. Above 5.6 it can start to develop a hot spot, but I stick to larger apertures with IR anyway because of diffraction. Shoot mostly at f4 with it, and it’s great.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/155370454@N08/52703465063/in/album-72177720306182167/
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/155370454@N08/53354625428/in/album-72177720306182137/

    Panasonic 42.5mm 1.7
    Probably the sharpest I’ve used, but can produce a bit of fringing with false color. Still great though. Similar hot spot issues to the 25mm, so I shoot everything f2.8-5.6.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/155370454@N08/52703232044/in/album-72177720306189579/
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/155370454@N08/52702456437/in/album-72177720306182167/

    Panasonic 12-60mm 3.5-5.6
    My favorite zoom I’ve tried. Pretty sharp, good for 590 and 830nm. Was great to at least f8.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/155370454@N08/53354602113/in/dateposted-public/

    Panasonic 14-45mm 3.5-5.6
    Not as sharp or contrasty as the 12-60, but still quite good for such a cheap lens.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/155370454@N08/53354834645/in/album-72177720312926598/

    Olympus 17mm 1.8
    Solid performer and works better at smaller apertures than most others, on the rare occasion they are necessary. Edges aren’t quite as good as the cheap Panasonic primes.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/155370454@N08/52703465878/in/album-72177720306189579/

    Olympus 40-150mm 2.8 and 12-40mm 2.8 pros
    Both are sharp and contrasty but both develop hot spots as you move past f5 or so, and the edges aren’t the best especially at the wide ends. But if you like shooting at f2.8-4 or so they can get good shots, at the long ends particularly.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/155370454@N08/52702979711/in/album-72177720306182137/
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/155370454@N08/52703398775/in/album-72177720306182137/

    Olympus 14-42mm 3.5-5.6 II
    Not as good as the cheap Panasonic zoom, and I hated the stiff focus ring.

    Panasonic 14mm 2.5
    Everybody mentions this lens, but I was underwhelmed, and prefer the Oly 17mm 1.8. I didn’t find the sharpness to be on par with the 25mm or 42.5mm lenses, the edges are soft, and colors took more work. But I have read results vary copy to copy.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/155370454@N08/52702455382/in/album-72177720306182137/

    I’ve tried a few others as well, but 90% of the time I’ve got the Panasonic 25mm 1.7 on my converted em1.ii. It’s tiny and sharp and cost less than the filter attached to it. The hot spot above 5.6 doesn’t bother me because I pretty much never need smaller. People use tiny apertures too much as it is, and in infrared there are even more reasons not to.

    Hope somebody finds it helpful.

  71. I’ve been adapting lenses onto my Full Spectrum Canon 5D Mark II and found that the Canon 50mm F/1.8 STM has no hot spots with a 590nm lens filter but the Nikon 24mm F/2.8 Ai-S (NIKKOR AIS) appears to hot spot from wide open. I also noticed it flares when I point it towards a fireplace but the flare is gone if I cover the fireplace with the UV/IR cut filter.

  72. – Sony FE 85mm 1.8 bad Hotspots all over the Place on my Sony A7RIII FS with 550nm

    – Tamron 28-75mm F/2.8 Di III VXD G2 Sony FE: also bad Hotspot starting at F5.6 on Sony A7RIII with 590nm

  73. Tamron 17-28 mm F2.8 Di III RXD

    – Colour Hotspot on Sony A7RIII with 550 590 and 720nm (Ali Express, Neewer, Hoya and Urth) beginning at F4

    I guess PPL are lying on the Internet right? Terrible IR Performance just like the 28-75 G2…

  74. – Tamron 20-40 f2.8 – Color Hotspots starting at f4 and 680nm / 17-28 has better IR Performance, sharper at 20mm f4 in the corners and a smidge more Contrast. Wanted to exchange the 17-28 – gonna sell the 20-40 again. (tested with Sony a7R III and Filters from AliExpress, Tiffen, Neewer and Urth)

  75. Tamron 28-200 with 590nm on Sony a7 RIII excellent Lense – excelense. No Hotspots no Color Spots. Tried f4 and f5.6 – will test f8 and f11 soon.

  76. So i tested the 17-28, 28-75g1 and the 28-200 with 590nm and 760nm on a Sony a7 RIII Full Spectrum, all 3 at 28mm F4, F5.6, F8 and F11.

    No Hotspots or Color Spots when the Sun is behind me. 28-75mm wins on 760nm at 28mm, and on 590nm the 17-28 wins at sharpness using F8 and F11.

    Will do more tests, but until now I won’t use the 28-200mm at 28mm anymore. terrible AC and almost no Corner Sharpness from F4-F11. But no Hotspots, great IR Performance!

  77. Viltrox AF 16mm f/1.8 FE
    Tested on my Full-spectrum Nikon Z5 (with AR coating) and a Kolari 720nm clip-in filter. My conclusion: this lens is not ideal for IR, but it’s pretty usable. At certain angles, or when shooting certain subjects, there is a diffuse bright area in the middle of the frame–very faint at f/1.8, increasing in intensity as you stop down. I mostly shoot at f/5, and it’s quite mild at that aperture. Even at f/16, it’s still less of a “spot” than a hazy light patch–nothing a little burning and dodging in post can’t fix. It may be more of a problem if that bright patch happens to fall in an empty part of the image (like a cloudless sky). I only shoot in black and white–color shooters: be advised that the bright patch has a different color (bluish purple) than the rest of the image (which looks magenta in the RAW files) so the artifact will likely be more pronounced in 720nm color. Finally, this lens is prone to some pretty ugly flare–I don’t always mind flare (it can sometimes add something to an image) but the shapes and patterns this particular lens creates are pretty distracting, so make sure to shield the lens when shooting contre-jour.

  78. Just tested the M4/3 Panasonic 12-32mm F3.5-5.6 and it seems like an excellent lens. No hotspots visible on either end of the focal range up to f20. Tested on a 680nm Panasonic G2.

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