Canon R5 Mark II Disassembly and Teardown
Written by Justin Pfeiffer
Canon announced the EOS R5 Mk II in July 2024 and we were able to get one for a teardown here at Kolari. Let’s see what has changed between this camera and it’s predecessor and how Canon has addressed the overheating issues of the original Canon R5. Before we get into the teardown, let’s breakdown the technical specs.
The Canon R5 MK II is hybrid camera with equally impressive specs on the photo and video side. It features a new full-frame back illuminated CMOS 45MP sensor designed by Canon. Capable of capturing 8k RAW footage up to 59.94 fps. Faster sensor read-out speeds allow for up to 30 fps electronic shutter & a new focus system makes this a great choice for action or sports photography.
Just like the original R5, this camera also uses an RF-mount, which is compatible with our magnetic clip-in filters; it also accepts an EF-EOS R Mount Adapter for compatibility with our drop-in filters. Now let’s take apart this camera!
We started by removing six screws fastened to the camera’s baseplate.
On the port side, there were four screws beneath the dust caps.
We extracted two screws on the bottom of the EVF.
Next we removed the eyecup, which was removed simply by squeezing the sides and sliding it off the camera.
Four silver screws were located beneath the eyecup. One black screw holds down the diopter.
We peeled back the right hand palm grip and extracted two silver screws.
At the top of the camera, two screws on each side were located underneath the strap mounts.
On the memory card side, we peeled back the grip to reveal four screws.
One screw was found under the shutter button.
We continued to peel back the right hand grip to reveal one screw on the front of the battery compartment.
Next, we removed the left hand front grip.
On the port side, we extracted two screws near the bottom of the camera.
After removing the aforementioned screws, we could remove the port side cover.
We found one screw beneath the battery door.
Removing the screw allowed us to detach the baseplate from the camera.
Back on the port side, one more screw was extracted before removing the rear panel.
One large ribbon cable connects the rear panel.
To better understand Canon’s solution to the overheating problem we disassembled the rear panel. We discovered that there was no fan or active cooling system, meaning the R5 Mk II, in its stock camera body without any attachments, only has passive cooling via vents, thermal pad, and heatsink.
Two ribbon cables attach the EVF to the circuitboard.
One screw was hidden under the R5 Mk II logo.
Three ribbon cables and two screws were extracted allowing us to disconnect the top panel.
Two screws and one ribbon cable held down the HDMI board. Unlike previous Canon cameras, the HDMI is not built in to the circuitboard making it easier to service.
We disconnected twelve ribbon cables from the circuit board.
Five screws secured the circuit board
On the port side, two screws were removed.
Two screws secure the tripod mount.
This is the circuit board of the camera!
We disconnected the heat transfer tape from the front of the camera.
We used a T6 Torx screwdriver to remove three screws that secure the sensor.
Finally, the sensor could be removed. The Canon R5 Mk II uses a spring-loaded mechanism for focus calibration instead of shims.
We consider the Canon R5 MK II camera a mid-difficulty camera to tear down. According to our camera tech it was slightly more complicated then the original R5 with more screws, a new EVF, and a new sensor. Canon also added heat transfer tape which adds one more step before reaching the sensor.
Thanks for reading. If you’re interested in more camera teardowns, we feature a new one every month. Be sure to sign up for our newsletter so you don’t miss them!
